Specialty Food Magazine

JAN-FEB 2013

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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Quince This longtime favorite has settled comfortably into its Jackson Square digs. Chef Michael Tusk offers both an a la carte menu and two tasting menus that change nightly. House-made pastas and slow-cooked meat dishes remain highlights here. With the popular Cotogna on the corner, patrons can now enjoy a more rustic version of this favorite at lower prices in a more casual setting—if you can get a reservation, that is. 470 Pacific Ave. (at Montgomery); 415.775.8500; quincerestaurant.com. $$$$ Slanted Door Not surprisingly, this world-class Vietnamese restaurant is busy every night of the week. Charlie Phan's food remains as good as ever, and the sexy waterfront room and long, sleek bar is inviting and convivial. Favorites include shaking beef, chicken clay pot and the grapefruit and jicama salad. The wine list is one of the best around. Phan's cooking is in high demand; if you can't get a table, try his second restaurant Out the Door, on Bush at Fillmore, which offers familiar favorites and breakfast too. Ferry Building, 1 Ferry Building (Embarcadero at Market); 415.861.8032; slanteddoor.com. $$$ Zuni Café Chef-owner Judy Rodgers continues to serve her famous roasted chicken, burgers and Caesar salads at this perennial favorite. Everyone from young hipsters to San Francisco society rub elbows over fresh oysters and cocktails at this quintessential city spot. 1658 Market St. (at Gough); 415.552.2522; zunicafe.com. $$$ Neighborhood Finds Aziza (Richmond) The best way to enjoy chef Mourad Lahlou's delicious food is by ordering the generous five-course tasting menu that includes various Mediterranean spreads, grilled pita bread, roasted bell peppers, honeyed beets, eggplant and more. Don't miss the herb-infused cocktails—ideal for sipping at this chic neighborhood favorite. 5800 Geary Blvd. (at 22nd); 415.752.2222; azizasrichmond.com. $$ Bar Agricole (Mission) This 4,000-square-foot spectacle features cement booths, sleek architecture and plenty of specialty libations, many of which include, naturally, rhum agricole, a Caribbean spirit. Tequila, whiskey and gin are also in good supply and featured in drinks with engaging names like Star Daisy, Opalescence and Moonraker. Owner and mixologist extraordinaire Thad Volger does the honors in the cocktail arena, while an intriguing menu complements the liquid delights with such items as mussels with leeks and corn pudding with okra and padron peppers. 355 11th St. (at Harrison); 415.355.9400; baragricole.com. $$$ 104 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com Flour + Water (Mission) This Mission neighborhood restaurant hasn't stopped buzzing since it opened three years ago. Chef Thomas McNaughton is behind the exceptionally well-made Neapolitan-style pizzas and inventive house-made pastas. As the name suggests, this restaurant takes flour and water quite seriously and its daily changing menu features such delectable choices as paparadelle with braised pork shoulder and broccoli rabe, and a verzada pizza prepared with braised savoy cabbage, prosciutto and pecorino cheese. The wine list is Italian and features plenty of obscure, tasty selections. 2401 Harrison St. (at 20th); 415.826.7000; flourandwater.com. $$ Nojo (Hayes Valley) American born chef-owner Greg Dunmore (previously of Terra and Ame) combines his passion for Japanese cooking and local ingredients at his neighborhood nojo, which translates to "farm." His deceptively simple menu is divided into two sections: On a Stick and Not on a Stick. Numerous chicken preparations include breast and thigh, as well as neck and shoulder. Pork and duck are available (on a stick), while vegetable tempura and a salad of Tokyo turnips with walnut dressing are served in earthenware (sans sticks). Ten sakes and a number of hearty beers are on offer. 231 Franklin St. (at Linden); 415.896.4587; nojosf.com. $$ Nopa (North Panhandle) Fabulous food, unpretentious wait staff, and a long communal table that stretches the length of the restaurant—are all good reasons to seek out this neighborhood favorite. Nopa (which stands for "north of the panhandle") attracts a mixed crowd, serving nightly until 1 a.m., and has become a hangout for chefs and other industry folks. Some of the simple, rustic favorites include rotisserie chicken, grilled pork chop, Mediterranean fish stew, and hamburger and fries. The warm doughnut holes are not to be missed. Note that noise levels can be high at this popular gathering place. 560 Divisadero St. (at Hayes); 415.864.8643; nopasf.com. $$ Troya (Fillmore) This recent addition to Fillmore Street seems a perfect fit for the neighborhood. Previously home to Elizabeth Falkner's Citizen Cake, now Mediterranean flavors with a Turkish focus waft through the open dining room. Flatbreads, spicy green beans and various renditions of Turkish cheeses make up a good portion of the menu, while larger entrees of meatballs and lamb dishes are also on hand. The flavors and unique preparations surprise and delight; a calamari breaded in rice flour with hints of cumin and paprika is innovative and delicious. A short wine list of unusual offerings and several good beers round out the menu. 2125 Fillmore St. (at Sacramento); 415.563.1000; troyasf.com. $$ |SFM| Food writer Tanya Henry has been reviewing restaurants in the Bay Area for more than 15 years.

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