Specialty Food Magazine

JAN-FEB 2013

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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OAKTOWN SPICE SHOP Global selections from allspice to za'atar Curious about the medieval history (and contemporary uses) of the cubeb pepper? Want to spice up a favorite lamb dish with baharat or ras el hanout? From allspice to za'atar, whatever spice you crave can be found at this friendly Oakland shop in the Grand Lake neighborhood, close to Lake Merritt. What's more, owners John Berger and Erica Perez, who opened the store to share their passion for spices and research, can tell you where each spice comes from and how to use it. Of particular interest to local chefs and cooks are best sellers such as peppercorns, curry powders and harissa seasoning, as well as the rotating spice blends made in-house weekly by Berger and Perez. SALUMERIA Daily sausage sandwiches and other Italian specialties The team behind Flour+Water and Central Kitchen in the Mission want you to eat just as well at home as you would at their hot-ticket Cal-Ital restaurants. To that end, they've created this welcoming little deli and food shop where you'll find house-cured Italian-inspired meats, housemade pickles and sausages (Boudin Blanc is a favorite), local and imported cheeses, and a full menu of sandwiches, soup, salads, antipasti, salumi and cheese platters. Top sellers include the daily sau- sage sandwich and soup, housemade granola, chocolate bars from suppliers Dandelion and Mast Brothers, and coffee and espresso from Mr. Espresso. During the day, the light-filled, loft-size dining room of next door's Central Kitchen doubles as a casual lunchroom for Salumeria patrons. On weekends, the shop offers a popular, seasonally inspired fresh pasta kit from the Flour+Water kitchen plus housemade sauce and a recipe by Salumeria chef Matthew Sigler. TEMESCAL ALLEY Oakland's new gourmet mini-mall This former barn stall is a new minimall-style mixed retail space just off of Telegraph Avenue's gourmet corridor in Oakland. The two alleys run behind popular Dona Thomas (soulful Mexican cuisine), Pizzaiolo (Italian pizza, pastas and salads from a former Chez Panisse chef) and Bake Sale Betty's (home to a beloved friedchicken sandwich). Opened in January, Temescal Alley is home to Doughnut Dolly, a new spot for one thing only: yeasty, handcut and -rolled doughnuts, filled to the top with all manner of jellies, cream and custard that sell out in no time. Be ready to wait in line as owner and baker Hannah Hoffman hand-fills each sugar-dusted doughnut. Try the Mexican chocolate filling with a hint of cinnamon or the lemony custard; you're unlikely to make it out the store without taking your first delicious bite. Nearby Oakland Dry Goods, owned by a professional estate gardener Lonna Lopez, is a small but mighty shop, which neighboring residents love to peruse as their personal pantry. You'll find housemade preserves like Apple Plum Hibiscus Jam and Meyer Lemon Marmalade and syrups (lavender, lemon) made with locally sourced fruits, granola and East Bay Urban Bees honey from the owner's hives. Other products popular with the locals include Kensington Marmalades, Morning Glory Brittle, Studebaker Pickles and Vice Chocolates. PHOTO: FULL PLATE RESTAURANT CONSULTING insula. They've stocked their cozy corner Iberian pantry shop in Hayes Valley with high-quality canned seafood from Matiz, sherry vinegar, olive oil, chocolate (including chocolate-covered marcona almonds), imported Spanish cheeses, smoked paprika and saffron, as well as paella pans, churro makers and cookbooks. But what really keeps customers from all across the city coming back are the succulent sausages and cured meats—chorizo, lomo and jamon serrano, Ibérico and the rare Ibérico de bellota—that Avery slices to order. Hayes Valley Bakeworks UMAMI MART Japanese kitchen and barware pop-up A former barn stall is a new mixed retail space. Old Town Oakland has ten new pop-up businesses being supported through a city grant. Umami Mart, opened by two Japanese friends earlier this year, is one such outpost: a destination store for imported Japanese kitchen and barware such as gold-plated jiggers, crystal cocktail pitchers, ice picks, stirrers, glassware and everything a dedicated bartender desires. The owners Kayoko Akabari and Yoko Kumano source their favorite enamel tea pots, and collaborate with artists from around the world to make customized pieces, such as Atelier Dion's line of tea cups, letterpress art, aprons and coffee cups. They also host monthly events, such as a ramen-making class with Oakland's Ramen Shop. This is cool Japan meets hip Oakland, indeed. |SFM| Laiko Bahrs is a culinary consultant and coowner of Epicuring, an online calendar of food experiences and events in California. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 107

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