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Argan oil also represents a growing dedication to social consciousness in Morocco's food sector, as the country institutes significant initiatives to improve the quality of life for its people. Argan oil is largely produced by women's cooperatives that allow oncedisenfranchised Berber women in the countryside to earn a fair price for their kernels from argan trees, and to ensure that women and their products are part of the supply chain. The demand for argan oil is currently so great that the government plans to boost production, currently at 2,500 tons, to 4,000 tons by 2020. Moroccans are also dedicated to organic production. "Morocco was one of the first African countries to start organic production in the early 1990s," says Debra Klodowski, a researcher at Matic. "It started in Marrakech and rapidly spread to other regions. No matter the social class, there is a large market for organic products in Morocco. Actually, traditional Moroccan eating habits encourage organic food production and treatment. An ancient Moroccan farming technique known as beldi yields a product extremely similar to a certified organic product." In the U.S., several companies are responding to the growing interest in Moroccan foods and flavors. American Halal Company, Stamford, Conn., offers Moroccan meals as part of its Saffron Road Foods brand. The company recently added Moroccan Lamb Stew with Couscous to its ethnic frozen-entree line, and its simmer sauces include Moroccan Tagine. While made in the U.S., the recipes were developed from Moroccan sources to evoke the colorful and flavorful foods in Marrakech and Fès, says Jack Acree, executive vice president. "The trend of using ethnic spices in mainstream gourmet products has been on the rise for several years," says Marry O'Donnell, CEO of Terrapin Ridge Farms, Clearwater, Fla., which introduced a Moroccan Date Sauce in January 2012 that pairs well with chicken or grilled eggplant. "Today's consumers are not as intimidated to try new condiments and use them in different ways. It was a natural fit for us to experiment with Moroccan spices and sweet dates after seeing a hole in the industry [for such a sauce]. We received a lot of positive feedback on the flavor profile, so we are working on additional Moroccan-influenced products." Exploring the Countryside The kindness and hospitality of the Moroccan people, their delicious foods and distinctive ingredients are among my most lasting memories. Returning home with me were packets of ras el hanout, a jar of harissa and a bottle of argan oil. Happily, these ingredients are readily available in the U.S., so a chance to experience these flavors again doesn't seem so far away. |SFM| In Fès, locals make khobz dyal smida, a bread of white and semolina flours. PHOTO: JOANNA PRUESS While in Fès, I hired Hassan Chahyd to drive me to other regions. Soon after leaving town, we came to a Berber village where Hassan bought a couple of breads, including a round, flat variety called khobz dyal smida, made of white and semolina flours and cooked on a griddle. Most bread is baked in communal ovens, and it is not uncommon to see young boys carrying trays of dough on their head on the way to the bakery. For breakfast I spread it with the most delicious mixture of ground almond, argan oil and honey. At one cafe, Hassan showed me how to made kofte, forming meat in cigar shapes on skewers before grilling. I was struck by the care with which he chose the ingredients and seasonings, refusing to use pre-ground meat. Driving through the Atlas Mountains, he pointed out the abundant sheep. For weddings and important ceremonies in Berber villages, a meshwi, or barbecue, is prepared in which a lamb or goat is roasted whole in a pit or underground. Once back in Marrakech, Hassan introduced me to a tangia, a stew and also the name of the urn-shaped terra-cotta pot it in which it is cooked. The stew is typical of this city and is usually prepared by men. The pot is cooked in the basement of a hammam (or Turkish bath) where there is a wood-burning stove that heats the water for the baths, a centuries-old tradition. The tangia is cooked collectively for four hours and each person is given a number to return to claim their stew when it's done. Joanna Pruess is a regular contributor to Specialty Food Magazine. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2013 93