cheese focus
Marketing Challenges
Part of the country's struggle is purely in
image, not quality. "There are fascinating
Greek cheeses all over the Peloponnese and
all over Crete," says Steve Jenkins, the influential cheese buyer for the East Coast chain
Fairway Markets. "But they're primitive as
they can be, and they don't look good on a
counter. They don't look commercial."
Jenkins recalls a "brilliant" Greek
cheese soaked in wine must that someone
once brought him for consideration. "It was
a wonderful, primitive experience," recalls
the merchant, "but it would be impossible to
put a cheese like that in retail in New York.
It wouldn't make it."
Sheree Cardoos, a Boston-area broker, helped launch the esteemed Mt. Vikos
Winter Fancy Food Show Booth 469
Halloumi sales have
spiked at Di Bruno
Brothers since Zahav, an
acclaimed Philadelphia
restaurant, put the
cheese on its menu.
Grilled halloumi cheese with
tomato and pine nuts
Winter Fancy Food Show Booth 4822
58
❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE
specialtyfood.com