cuisine focus
The Foods of
Oaxaca
The cuisine of this region of Mexico—
particularly its mole—continues to
be popular with star chefs and consumers across the country. And now
Oaxaca's distinctive mezcal is finding
huge success stateside.
BY JULIE BESONEN
O
axaca is the culinary capital of Mexico, a state
roughly 320 miles southeast of Mexico City,
famous for its mole, mezcal and food markets. Several icons of the food world, including Diana
Kennedy, Alice Waters, Calvin Trillin and Rick Bayless,
have celebrated its uncompromising traditions to such an
extent that the rest of the world is taking notice.
"Oaxaca has such a strong identity in terms of being really
rich in history and gastronomy. There is a drive toward certifying
authentic areas and authentic foods," says Barbara Sibley, chef and
owner of La Palapa, a Mexican restaurant in Manhattan's East
Village. Digging into the region's cuisine brings to light an amalgamation of ingredients and specialties. Read on for a primer on all
things Oaxaca.
WINTER 2014
95