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global eats Joanna Pruess is a regular contributor to Specialty Food Magazine. Braai: A South African Obsession If there is one thing that unites all of this country's denizens, it is a braai, which basi- cally means a barbecue done the South African way. It differs from American bar- becue in that, socially, a braai is considered essential to every celebration, not simply as a way to cook food. The word is recognized in all 11 languages in the country, and September 24 is National Braai Day. As a way to promote national heri- tage, the government is working to make the holiday as important as America's Thanksgiving. Part of its mission statement reads: "Across race, language, region, and religion, we all share one common heritage. It is called many things: Chisa Nyama, Braai, and Ukosa to name few. Although the ingredients may differ, the one thing that never changes is that when we have something to celebrate we light fires and prepare great feasts." In 2007, as part of the initiative, Desmond Tutu was appointed as the patron of the holiday. The word braai is originally an Afrikaans term for a barbecue or grill. It is also used as a verb—"to grill or barbecue" vleis (meat). By extension, braaivleis means "grilled meat." Last summer, South Africa Tourism teamed up with Durban-born "Top Chef " alum Elizabeth "Lizzie" Binder to discuss braai's role in the cuisine. Binder says the cultural nuances make the real difference between South African braai and U.S. barbecue, even if the method of food preparation is very similar. For centuries, South Africans have been gathering around the braaistand to grill succulent meats that run the gamut from traditional to exotic: from boerewors (farmer's sausages) and sosaties (kebabs)—among the most popular foods at these cookouts—to springbok and wildebeest. Game meats are typically marinated or rubbed with spices before grilling. Especially in Durban, Indian spices are also com- mon, says Binder, and the play on sweet and sour is widespread. Dried fruits and vinegars frequently are also used in chutneys and relishes. Meats are typically accompanied by pap, a cornmeal porridge similar to polenta. Braais can feature fish and vegetables as well, ref lect- ing the rich assortment of those foods available in South Africa. Most celebrations are in the afternoon or evening. At these social gatherings, men typically do all the grilling of the meat while women make the side dishes. Usually one male is in charge of attending the fire, watching over the coals, and cooking the meat. If other males participate, it is usually only for conversation. Wood was initially used for the cookouts, but today charcoal briquettes have become more popular due to their convenience. The meal is then eaten outside by the grill. Long before the Afrikaans term was introduced into the language, tribal cultures traditionally welcomed guests with a ritually slaughtered animal to appease the spirits of their ancestors. Today, like much of South African cooking, the legacy of several cultures is an important part of these huge weekend gatherings. If there is one thing that unites all South Africans, it is a braai, a barbecue essential to every celebration. 160 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com globalEats_southAfrica.indd 160 6/3/14 11:54 AM