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From Tradition to Staple Adoration for this beloved noodle soup has been simmering in Japan since the late 1800s, evolving over time into myriad regional—and now international—styles. Origin stories highlight the role of Chinese cooks in bringing ramen to widespread use in Japan, says George Solt, author of Taking Ramen Seriously: How Political Crisis in Japan Spawned a Global Food Craze. The most popular story begins with 19th century Chinese traders who brought lā-mien, a type of hand-stretched noodles in chicken broth, to the archipelago nation. The Chinese-style noodle soup gained popularity as working- class food, and locals soon adapted it to their own tastes. The Tokyo-style ramen that's now ubiquitous worldwide is said to have come of age in 1910, with the founding of Rai-Rai Ken, a restaurant that employed Chinese chefs and served a soy sauce–f la- vored broth with noodles and toppings. The dish finally hit its stride in Japan a century later in the 1980s, when chefs elevated the experi- ence, taking it from street grub to mainstream cuisine. "Ramen wasn't everywhere in Japan," explains noodle master Ivan Orkin of the dish's trajectory to global stardom. Now, he says, it's become mainstream throughout the country, rivaling sushi and the casual izakaya eateries for cultural icon status. Rise to Western Fame Today, eager foodies in cities from Los Angeles to Milwaukee to New Orleans are standing in line for a taste of the upscale dish. Ramen shops have multiplied and given birth to endless takes on the trend, from a ramen–matzo ball soup mash-up to a ramen burger. I n 1958, Japanese businessman Momofuku Ando invented a precooked noodle product that went on to become the iconic Cup Noodles soup. Soon after, the product arrived in the U.S., quickly becoming a cheap and hearty staple of collegiate cuisine. What came next was its explosive reinvention as a high-end, authentic meal at top restaurants in Japan and beyond. Its origins are hazy, with some crediting China, others Japan. But it's ramen's modern cousin, instant noodles, that brought the recipe to a global market and from fast food to haute cuisine. REINVENTION RAMEN'S global eats PHOTO: DANIEL KRIEGER 66 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com