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the nearby stairwell to the restaurant. The cheese counter reveals a menu of solely domestic cheeses, discovered by Beecher's cheesemonger Elena Santogade, most in the range of $26 to $32 per pound, and many with limited distribution. Even the retail selection, at about 100 SKUs, is entirely domestic, with products from the likes of New York–based Mast Brothers Chocolate and Sir Kensington's, as well as Seattle favorite Boat Street Pickles. Beecher's offers cheesy byproducts for sale, such as World's Best Mac and Cheese, featuring its Flagship and Just Jack chees- es, and 2010 sofi Silver Finalist Smoky Roasted Vegetable Cavatappi, with Smoked Flagship. Facing the creamery is the café, with breakfast items for morning custom- ers, a full coffee bar and lunch offerings like pressed sandwiches layered with Beecher's cheeses. A mezzanine level offers plenty of additional seating, ideal for business lunches and available for private events. The building's once dingy, dirt-floor basement has been transformed into a full- service restaurant and bar, dubbed The Cellar. "I wanted to have a restaurant where people could experience our food in a more convivial setting than just in the café," says Dammeier. In the rectangular cement foot- ings of the building's foundation Dammeier saw what would become the restaurant's booths. "That's what sealed the deal for me." Jennerjahn says a savvy New York cli- entele jumped on the downstairs restaurant and bar, open at 5 p.m. daily and advertised with only a glowing neon sign next to the store's entrance. The Cellar's cocktail menu is a nod to the historic building, which celebrated its 125th birthday this year, and the neighbor- ing birthplace of Theodore Roosevelt, with such names as Stanford White (rye, fig and bitters), named for the building's architect, and The Big Stick (gin, lillet, lemon and cardamom) for Roosevelt's famous quota- tion, "Speak softly and carry a big stick." The dinner menu exhibits simple elegance, with meats, seafood and vegetable dishes offering nary an unrecognizable component or unpro- nounceable ingredi- ent. The menu reflects Dammeier's philosophy of purity and qual- ity, Jennerjahn notes. "I want to be able to tell what's in it; I want to be able to know what the ingredients are," she explains. Diners can also enjoy Beecher's cheese plates and the World's Best Mac and Cheese in six flavors, such as curried cauli- flower with sweet onion and pork belly with pickled fennel stem. "It is comfort food," says Utano, "but it's very good comfort food." Completing the look is an affinage Beecher's has gone from making three vats per week to 20—four vats a day, five days a week. Utano hopes to expand production to seven days in 2013. room. Along one wall of the candlelit Cellar stretches rows of wheels behind a glass window. Inside is a new variety Utano is still testing, a pungent 2- to 3-month-aged, washed-rind cheese dubbed Flatiron. "It serves as a pretty nice background too," adds Jennerjahn. Settling into the Neighborhood Jennerjahn sees Beecher's domestic focus (in addition to the working creamery) as a standout despite somewhat intimidating surroundings. Within a few blocks is Italian gourmet emporium Eataly, as well as the newly expanded Brooklyn business Bedford Cheese Shop and an array of high-end restaurants. "We're surrounded by such cool places that have such an international vibe," she says. "We're local. It's a good complement." Customers appreciate the market's many offerings. From neighboring offices come crowds for lunch, dinner and drinks; local denizens frequent the cheese counter; and tourists flood the market on weekends. Cheese knowledge is equally varied, from savvy shoppers quickly selecting favorites to customers with a bevy of questions, and even European-cheese lovers whom the cheesemongers happily introduce to compa- rable domestic options. "Our cheesemongers are all trained on the theme of education versus lecturing," Jennerjahn adds. "I don't want to feel dumb when I walk up to the cheese case." The Cellar staff is similarly restrained, offering just the basic details of each offering—and lighting up when diners ask for more. Surroundings have been a significant part of the learning experience thus far. "Running a business in New York—it's just different," says Jennerjahn. But advice has been easy to find. "A lot of people in this food business are more than willing to give you insight, tips, ideas and help." NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 37