Specialty Food Magazine

FALL 2019

Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.

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Winter Fancy Food Show Booth #2469 says San Francisco cheesemonger Jon Fancey. Made on a small scale from the milk of the indigenous Payoya goats, Andazul is the creation of a cheesemaker who used to make Montealva. Unusually, she does not pierce the wheels to create air channels for the Penicillium to grow. Instead she aerates the curds by hand before she transfers them to molds, says importer Michele Buster of Forever Cheese. The result is mellow and plush, neither salty nor piquant—an excel- lent choice for customers fearful of blues but one that will also please the aficionado. Bleu 1924 (France): An unusual mixed- milk wheel from the Auvergne region— Roquefort country—Bleu 1924 relies on sheep's and cow's milk in roughly equal parts. François Kerautret, a now-retired cheese importer, dreamed up the idea and per- suaded Hervé Mons, the respected French affineur, to find a creamery to make it. "What if Roquefort and Stilton had a baby?" is how Kerautret described his vision for the cheese. The creamery, a blue cheese specialist, ships the young wheels to Mons' aging facility and his team matures them for about three months. The 6-pound wheels have a natural rind and a creamy, spreadable interior with aromas of toasted walnut and malted barley. It is more buttery than pungent, more Stilton than Roquefort. Steve Jones, the owner of raw Jersey milk. That's rarified air already; a blue cheese that checks all those boxes is rarer still. Cheesemaker Joe Moreda, whose mother started the cheesemaking venture on the family's 100-year-old dairy farm, initially envisioned making an American version of Gorgonzola dolce, the luscious, spreadable Italian blue. But three years of development yielded a cheese that's closer to a robust Stilton: dense and buttery with a scent that hints at buttered toast, Saltine crackers, and roasted nuts. Grazin' Girl is a four-pound wheel with a natural rind and a mellow personality. Imported: Andazul (Spain): Several retailers are fans of this new goat's-milk blue from Andalusia. "We can barely give blue cheese away at Bi-Rite, but this is probably the tastiest goat's-milk blue I've had over the years," Valley Ford Cheese Grazin' Girl Andazul PHOTOS: JANET FLETCHER/PLANET CHEESE FALL 2019 37 cheese focus

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