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assail the senses. The snack that Turks seem the most fervent about, Cheshes says, is kokoreç, spicy, charcoal-grilled lamb intestines stuffed in a sandwich. Cheshes is particularly impressed by chef Musa Dağdeviren, whose three Çiya cafeterias in the market district near the Bosporus (the strait that marks the divide between Europe and Asia) vari- ously specialize in meze, homestyle stews, and kebabs. "He's a food historian and anthropologist," Cheshes says of Dağdeviren, who is committed to collecting and resurrecting near-forgotten plants, ingredients, and recipes from all over Turkey, from rare cheeses to heritage parsley. His Slow Food approach is driving him to establish a Turkish culinary institute as well as a seed bank for heritage plants to continue his research. Bringing Turkey Home In many cities across the U.S., Turkish food is relatively easy to come by. Some specialty products can be found via Nar Gourmet, an export-import company based in New York City. CEO Samir Bayraktar is dedicated to restoring and preserving Turkey's culi- nary style by supporting authentic producers and building appre- ciation globally. His company concentrates on the regional foods of Anatolia, such as hazelnut oil, pistachio oil, quince preserves, fig marmalade, and organic pomegranate vinegar. Anatolia, located on the Mediterranean coast, is renowned for its rich soil and ideal climate for producing pure, small-batch products that are viewed as the cornerstone of a healthy diet. Ever-popular döner kebabs and lahmacun are typically found GLOSSARY: TURKISH STREET FOOD Baklava: phyllo dough sweetened with sugar syrup (not honey), stuffed with pistachios, walnuts, or hazelnuts, lacquered in butter, and cut into diamond shapes Börek: baked or fried phyllo pastry usually stuffed with feta and parsley or minced meat; cut into squares, shaped like a pie, or rolled into a cigar shape Bulgur pilavi: whole wheat that's been boiled, dried, and ground and mixed into a nutritious pilaf with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and parsley Dolma: translates to "stuffed"; hollowed-out eggplant, bell pepper, zucchini, or onion filled with rice, currants, nuts, or meat Döner kebab: meat, usually lamb but sometimes beef or chicken, roasted by rotating on a vertical spit, then shaved and served in pita or lavash; a mainstay of Turkish street food that's the cousin of Greek gyros and Middle Eastern shawarma. Kokoreç: charcoal-grilled lamb intestine spiked with chile flakes, oregano, and cumin and stuffed in a sandwich Köfte: meatballs variously served as tartare, grilled on skewers, submerged in yogurt sauce or sour cherry sauce, or stuffed in a cracked-wheat (bulgur) casing Lahmacun: cracker-thin flatbread topped with minced meat, onions, tomato, and parsley Lavash: flatbread used for roll-ups when soft and fresh, crisped up to make crackers or serving as a base for lahmacun Manti: mini dumpling stuffed with meat and onions, smothered in garlicky yogurt sauce, and brightened with mint Pide (pictured): stone-baked flatbread made of wheat flour and topped with meats (or vegetarian options), cheese, and onions; one of Turkey's cheapest and most filling snacks and the closest dish to pizza, except for the traditional extra squeeze of lemon Simit: ring-shaped bread similar to a bagel, dipped in molasses and crusted with sesame seeds; typically eaten for breakfast Tantuni roll: sandwich specialty of southern Turkey on the Mediterranean coast; typically diced beef and spices cooked in a massive tantuni pan and wrapped in soft lavash 72 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com cuisineSpotlight_turkey.indd 72 3/18/14 1:31 PM