Specialty Food Magazine is the leading publication for retailers, manufacturers and foodservice professionals in the specialty food trade. It provides news, trends and business-building insights that help readers keep their businesses competitive.
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For inspiration, some caterers and cheese merchants are looking to That Cheese Plate, a website with 20,000 Instagram followers, as well as studying the handiwork of mongers like Lilith Spencer, a staffer at Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, whose astonishing platter craft helped her win the 2016 Winter Cheesemonger Invitational. To help inspire and transform your own cheese boards, three mongers weigh in below with their advice on crafting standout cre- ations that make an impact. LILITH SPENCER Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, Santa Fe, NM The Basics. Cheesemongers of Santa Fe prepares platters in four sizes. Each size includes a pre-determined weight of cheese and char- cuterie, and the monger balances the selections to stay under a target cost per pound. "There's no set list of cheeses we're allowed to use, but if a customer wants something a little over-the-top, like a whole Rush Creek Reserve, we reserve the right to charge extra," says Lilith Spencer, cheesemonger. Accompaniments are budgeted at about $2 per person, based on retail cost. "Our platters have developed a repu- tation around town. There are so many art galleries around Santa Fe, and they have the platters at their openings." The Look. "Cheeses with a lot of fissures and eyes fall apart once you start cutting them. I like to use cheeses that are elastic and smooth, like Heublumen, which is pretty because of the flowers on the rind," Spencer says. With hard cheeses that crumble or splinter when cut, like Parmigiano-Reggiano and some Cheddar, Spencer breaks them into nuggets. For smaller hard cheeses, like Vella Dry Jack, she will cradle the cheese nuggets in the scooped-out rind. She cuts some gooey cheeses in half horizontally and presents both halves cut side up to prevent running. Blue cheeses can be challenging as well; many can't be neatly sliced or crumbled, so Spencer usually leaves them in wedges. The Perspective. "We try to use bulk condiments as much as possible. We buy local bulk pickles and American Spoon's Sour Cherry Preserves in bulk. Eat This, in Erwinna, Pa., makes a great bacon marmalade. If customers want a vegetarian option for some guests, we can put the marmalade in small cups so it's a meaty treat that doesn't touch anything," Spencer says. "The cross-contamination factor is high with platters, and we take allergies seriously. On our catering forms, there's a place to note allergies, and we triple-check. Sometimes we'll give people a separate container of nuts they can keep on the side," she explains. Fresh vegetables are huge for Spencer. "I don't think they're used enough. It's nice to have a palate cleanser, something crunchy that isn't a cracker or nuts. You can slice a lot of vegetables on the meat slicer and fold them up like salami f lowers," she says. PETER GRANOFF Oxbow Cheese Merchant, Napa, CA The Basics. "We have several fixed boards: a Locals Board de- signed to focus on cheese from the region; a Euro Trip board; and a Cowgirl Creamery board," says Peter Granoff, owner. His shop, in a multi-vendor public market, has an affiliated retail-wine nook and tasting bar. "In addition, we do a California Wine Flight, in red and white versions, with cheese pairings as an add-on. And we'll do a custom board of any kind; the weighed cheeses plus a plating charge to cover condiments. Charcuterie for the boards is pre-sliced and refrigerated. We don't do a lot of pre-slicing of cheese." cheese focus MORE TIPS AND TRENDS TO CONSIDER U nusual condiments and accompaniments give a cheese tray personality. Mongers suggest thinking seasonally and looking locally first. Add fresh figs when they're in season, fig jam when they're not. Lilith Spencer, of Cheesemongers of Santa Fe, incorporates New Mexican Hatch chiles in summer to give her platters a taste of terroir. Search out local honeys, preserves, dried fruit, crackers, and charcuterie before turning to national or imported brands. "The most notable trend is what I call the 'packed' cheese plate," says Marissa Mullen, the Brooklyn resident behind the website That Cheese Plate, which offers inspiration and advice on creating interesting cheese boards. "These cheese plates are full to the brim with cheese, meats, crackers, and accoutrements. No part of the actual plate is showing. But the packed cheese plate doesn't provide much room for cutting cheese, so you will have to make some room before serving," Mullen says. Another trend she's seen is the use of ramekins. "Different- sized ramekins can hold olives, fig jam, cornichons, or fresh honeycomb. Ramekins make it possible to include many types of textures without worrying about them spilling. "[I find] the golden rule is to include something firm (Manchego, Parmigiano-Reggiano), soft (Camembert, Jasper Hill Harbison), aged (Cheddar, goat Gouda), and blue (Stilton, Valdeón)," Mullen says. Add visual variety with blue cheese, a deeply colored Gouda, or Wisconsin Cheddar and pale chèvre. 38 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE specialtyfood.com