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Issue link: https://specialtyfoodmagazine.epubxp.com/i/102355
Crisscrossing the country for ten days allowed me to sample regional dishes in outdoor stalls, homes and modest and lofty restaurants from Fès to Merzouga, Ouarzazate to Marrakech, as well as a grillstop cafe along a winding road through the High Atlas Mountains. Admittedly, at around 11,000 feet, after numerous hairpin turns in cold rain, it took several cups of steaming mint tea and bites of flatbread to reignite my enthusiasm for the juicy charcoal-scented lamb chops. Undeniably, this eclectic cuisine—with its unique African, Andalusian, Arab, Berber, Muslim and Saharan influences—was remarkable. A Colorful Cornucopia The film Casablanca—likely Westerners' most familiar view of this nation—was filmed in black and white, so viewers couldn't appreciate the wide spectrum of hues that permeate Moroccan life. Open-air souks (markets), both freestanding and within medinas (ancient walled shopping centers), are piled with fresh ingredients in tones from deepest purple eggplants to palest celadon herbs. Tubs of creamy yellow, green, red and black olives stand alongside baskets of dried fruits, legumes and nuts. Stalls for fresh meat, live poultry and fish vendors are located in a separate area. Morocco's largest medina, Fès el-Bali, dating from the 9th century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The maze of narrow streets is said to house 13,380 historic buildings and more than 10,500 retail businesses. It is accessible only by foot or mule. Along with food vendors, medersas (religious schools), ancient mosques and tanneries, the jumbled shops are crammed with shiny bright bobbins of "silk" from agave cactus that would make Joseph's Technicolor dream coat a reality, copper pots, fanciful Bedouin garments, art objects and naturally dyed Berber rugs and weavings. Stores range from barely two yards wide to three-story mansions of cedar. To navigate the labyrinth, I hired an official guide, Tariq Cheb, who discussed the history and culture of medina life with me. Our four hours together included a lunch of Moroccan salad (comprising several small cold salads including roasted peppers, sauteed zucchini with tomatoes, lentils, carrots and olives in a vinaigrette) and succulent chicken tagine over tender onions, made with salt-preserved lemons (an important ingredient in many dishes) and topped with prunes, toasted almonds and sesame seeds. Following Tariq's lead, I began eating as most Moroccans do, with the thumb and two fingers of my right hand, using pieces of flatbread to scoop up bites of food. Generous Hospitality Moroccans have a reputation for friendliness and hospitality. I was thrilled when Tariq and his wife, Soumiya, formerly the chef of a local restaurant, invited me to dinner, because the best Moroccan food is said to be served in homes. As a chance to sample some authentic dishes, this meal did not disappoint. Along with harira, a fragrant tomato, lentil and chickpea soup redolent of fresh herbs and ginger (and a Ramadan staple), Soumiya prepared pastilla (or b'stilla), a labor-intensive Berber specialty of SS ANNA PRUE PHOTOS: JO 20 years, Americans have been exposed to Mediterranean cuisines and appreciate the taste, variety and use of healthy ingredients." "Over the past —Jean AbiNader, Moroccan American Trade & Investment Center Joanna Pruess' trip to Morocco spanned visits to Meknès and Marrakech, a camel ride across the Sahara, shopping for spices and fabrics at souks, and an introduction to the flavors of Morocco in restaurants and home kitchens. View more photos at specialtyfood.com/onlinehighlights. 90 ❘ SPECIALTY FOOD MAGAZINE ❘ specialtyfood.com