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(continued from p. 123) cuisine focus L PRODUCE AND THE LOCAL MOVEMENT ocally grown fruits and vegetables stay local. At Noggins Corner Farm Market, owner Beth Bishop says that her husband is from a family of English planters who have been on this land since 1760. Along with 52 apple varieties, the farm sells berries and other produce, baked goods and ciders. Bishop sees more people trying to buy products close to where they are grown. "Ninety percent of our produce stays local," she notes. "There's a lot more interest by young people in organic farming today." Jason Lynch, executive chef at Grand Pré Winery's Le Caveau Restaurant, was born in the Annapolis Valley. In the past 10 years, he has seen a huge growth in access to local products, especially via farmers markets, where chefs can pick up new and unique items year-round. About 80 percent of his ingredients are sourced locally, he says. "Our artisanal food industry has grown with everything from cheese producers to specialty charcuterie shops and traditional bakeries," Lynch says. "This has had a direct influence on young chefs, resulting in more creative, fresher menu items and a real passion for joint efforts to cross-promote the producer and the chef's business." the sixth generation of family involved with the business. The farm also makes yogurt, gelato and fresh pasteurized, non-homogenized milk sold in glass bottles. Another well-known producer is That Dutchman's Farm, maker of farmstead Gouda, a 2009 Canadian Cheese Grand Prix, Old Growler Gouda and Dragon's Breath Blue. Owners Maja and Willem van den Hoek emigrated from the Netherlands in 1970 and worked on various farms before starting their business. M LUNENBURG'S SEAFARING SIGNIFICANCE any of the coastal villages are filled with tempting markets, eateries and fine craft shops. But Lunenburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is unique. Its vibrantly colored 17th and 18th century buildings feature more than 70 percent of the original Georgian, Victorian, and Arts and Crafts structures Spirits. Nova Scotia is experiencing a growing industry of rum and other spirits. Rum running, in fact, was an important movement during Prohibition. Recalling this nefarious past, Ironworks Distillery, a boutique housed in a former ironworks plant, makes rum distilled from local molasses as well as vodka with apples, blueberries, raspberries and cranberries. Glenora Distillers, based in Glenville on Cape Breton Island, is reportedly North America's first distillery. It is most recognized for its Glen Breton Rare, a Scottish-style single-malt whiskey. still standing. Wines. The province has a rich history in viticulture, with the earliest vines planted in 1611 by French explorer Samuel de Champlain. In modern times, Roger Dial, founder of Domaine de Grand Pré Winery, is credited with producing the first commercial vintage in 1980. The second vineyard was Jost, and L'Acadie was the first organic winery. Currently, more than 70 grape growers span seven regions with more than 550 acres of vines. From the Annapolis Valley to Cape Breton, some impressive varietals are being grown to do well with the coastal breezes and cooler climate. Tidal Bay, considered one of the best wines in the province, delivers a fruitiness and kick of acidity that pairs perfectly with lobsters. That pairing is demonstrated beautifully at Blomidon Inn in Wolfville, where chef Sean Laceby, who trained at the Culinary Institute of Canada and at both Culinary Institutes of America in the U.S., uses as much local produce as possible, including ingredients taken from the inn's gardens. One meal there paired Gaspereau Vineyard's 2012 Tidal Bay with Laceby's fettuccini with lobster, tomato and horseradish cream and chives. farmers, but many chose fishing instead, and the Shelah Allen, the owner/operator of Lunenburg Town Walking Tours, and a seventh-generation Lunenburger, explains that in the 16th century, Lunenburg was a settlement of the indigenous Mi'kmaq. When the British seized the town, they renamed it in honor of King George II, the Duke of Brunschweig-Luneburg (the second n was added by mistake). The British wanted the French to become stately sea-captain houses, quaint fishermen's cottages and dwellings from ancillary industries attest to its importance in local life. Even before British control, explorer John Cabot landed here in 1497 to find the rich offshore banks. Ever since, the area has been a fishing and shipbuilding center, luring seafarers from around the world. The abundant codfish played a pivotal role in the economy because it could be salted, dried and stored for great periods of time to fend off starvation. Joanna Pruess is a regular contributor to Specialty Food Magazine. WINTER 2014 139